Yes, we have wines. And quality ones!
In the years 2021 and 2022, the Brazilian wine market presented a phenomenon that impresses: consumption increased by 30% in the period, even with the challenges and economic setbacks that the Pandemic imposed on the world. The truth is that the increase is nothing new, but never has the jump been so big and accentuated. According to data from the IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, in 2010, 22 million Brazilians declared they consumed the drink at least once a week. In 2020, this same number jumped to 39 million. And the increase in the consumer market has favored a second phenomenon, the expressive growth in the production of excellent Brazilian wines.
So let's look at some more numbers to get the exact dimension of the growth of the production of the "drink of Bacchus" on national soil. In 2021, the liters of wine produced in the country increased by 60% in relation to 2020, according to data from the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV). The volume produced was 360 million liters, the highest recorded in the country since 2008.
This phenomenon may have several explanations: from the arrival of new entrepreneurs coming from countries with a strong producing culture, to the access to new manufacturing technologies. But one factor is predominant, so that Brazilians began to value and consume more the wine "Made in Brazil" to replace those produced by our neighbors Chile and Argentina and those imported from the "Old World": the clear leap in product quality.
A new culture and new production centers
For years, Brazilian wines were almost entirely produced in the South of Brazil, mainly in Rio Grande do Sul. Among many dubious labels, sold in large demijohns at low prices, some good quality products began to emerge. Especially the sparkling wines, which were gradually gaining worldwide prominence. The evolution also brought quality red, white, and rosé wines from the region.
From climatic factors to the strong European presence in the region, several points led the wine culture to be concentrated in the region. However, in the last 10 years, this has changed. And wine production has spread throughout the entire national territory. First, with strength in the interior of São Paulo and Minas Gerais. But today, there are already productions in the Midwest and Northeast of the country.
The winter harvest has opened the door for new producers
Specialist Erwane Kaloudoff, in an article published in 2021 on the Prazeres da Mesa website, explains that most great wines are produced in regions of the world where the grapes ripen and are harvested during the driest time of the year, with sunny days and cold nights. Thus, the harvest takes place during the summer. The vine is traditionally pruned in August, sprouts in September, and flowers in October. But the local climate makes the summer harvest occur with high temperatures, low temperature range, heavy rainfall, and humid soil. The result: grapes with low phenolic compound content, rarely successful ripening, and very diluted juice.
However, in the Serra da Mantiqueira region, which stretches across São Paulo and Minas Gerais, local producers had a brilliant idea: they used the region's winter climate conditions (little rain, night coolness) and the ideal situations for ripening and good harvest and bet on a change in the cycle of planting and harvesting grapes. They started to make two prunings a year to harvest the grapes in winter. Eureka: they got very high quality grapes, especially Syrah.
The result was the birth of wineries that produce wines that have reached the quality standards compatible with the great international wines. Some, such as Guaspari, Maria Maria, Primeira Estrada and Casa Verrone have already received several international awards. And the arrival of a product of excellence has piqued the curiosity of Brazilians who have come not only to accept but also to admire national wines.
I believe this is still an incipient process, about 10 years in existence. Wineries are multiplying in the region, and Brazil has become a reference in the winter harvest. But the low production is not only still insufficient to meet the demand, but also makes the premium wines of the region quite expensive. Of course, not everything is perfect. But to realize that our country, in such a short time, is becoming a reference in the world of wine, and to see Brazilian consumers recognizing and supporting this transformation is something that certainly overflows my cup and my heart with joy.
